Cold Sesame Noodles with Smashed Cucumbers and Chili Crisp

Ingredients

• 4 Persian cucumbers, or 1 English cucumber
• 1 tsp kosher salt
• 2 tbsp rice vinegar, divided
• 1 lb dried spaghetti or egg-free wheat noodles
• 1/3 cup tahini, or creamy peanut butter in a pinch
• 3 tbsp soy sauce
• 1 tbsp maple syrup
• 1 tbsp toasted sesame oil, divided
• 2 cloves garlic, finely grated
• 1 tsp fresh ginger, finely grated
• 3 tbsp chili crisp, plus more for serving
• 3 scallions, thinly sliced
• 1 tbsp toasted sesame seeds

Steps

1. 1

   Start with the cucumbers. Place them on a stable cutting board, cover them with a clean kitchen towel, and press or strike them with a rolling pin until they crack open. Tear the pieces into rough, craggy chunks. Toss with the salt in a colander and let them sit over the sink while you do everything else.

2. 2

   Boil the noodles in well-salted water until just past al dente. Cold noodles firm up, so give them an extra minute over the package's low end. Before draining, scoop out and reserve 1/2 cup of the starchy cooking water. Drain the noodles and rinse them under cold running water until fully cool, tossing gently so they stay slick instead of gummy.

3. 3

   While the noodles cook, whisk the sauce right in your serving bowl: tahini, soy sauce, maple syrup, 2 teaspoons of the sesame oil, 1 tablespoon of the rice vinegar, the garlic, and the ginger. It will seize into a thick paste. Whisk in the reserved noodle water a splash at a time until the sauce loosens to the texture of heavy cream.

4. 4

   Add the cold noodles to the bowl and toss until every strand is glossed. Taste before adding another splash of soy sauce because cold food can mute salt.

5. 5

   Shake the cucumbers dry and toss them with the remaining 1 tbsp rice vinegar and 1 tsp sesame oil. Pile them over the noodles.

6. 6

   Spoon the chili crisp over everything and finish with scallions and sesame seeds. Serve cold or at room temperature. The sauce thickens in the refrigerator, so loosen leftovers with a spoonful of water before serving again.